Gettin' Shanghai'ed or How I learned to stop worrying and love Pudong...

I just realized that I left, you, dear readers, in a bit of a lurch. What happened to Maureen? you may ask. Did she ever make it home? Did she actually pull a Jack Bauer, go dark and take that anchor job in Tehran? (I wish...sort of...)

Yes, I'm no longer Shanghai'ed, but in my apartment in Seattle typing these words in my usual style: over cereal and coffee and with minimal clothing. That's my way and it's good to be back. As Jake and others told me it would, Seattle does seem a bit slower and smaller after the bustling ignormity of Shanghai. In some ways, this is what I've always loved about Seattle, but in a certain sense, I grew to like Shanghai's buzz and know for a fact that I left just as I was really starting to appreciate it. Sure there was intolerable heat, duel-bouts of food poisoning, pushy locals and phlegm-aplenty--but if you looked hard enough, you could see a bit of soul and a glimpse of people just trying to live, despite the most rampant (and rapid) industrialization the world has ever seen. Despite it's well-deserved negative reputation, Shanghai does have dignity.

I came to realize that China and I are actually going through similar transitions. We're both ambitious fast movers, shocking everyone with our outrageous ability to adapt and produce, but we are also continually caught between two worlds--old and new, east and west. I'm transitioning to join the world's most prosperous work force and China is transitioning to take it's share as one of the world's most prosperous economies. We are both casting off old guides to assume roles anew. Sure I could take this metaphor further, but perhaps I use it merely for myself, in order to understand how I came to Shanghai. How, knowing little about Shanghai or China (but assuming this would be the best place for journalism...ha!), I landed cockily in Pudong Airport, unready for the many shocks I would receive in the coming months. The whole process was humbling and it made me realize: I've wasted so much time trying position myself for perfection and if I merely relax (and let China take over), things come in their own time.

Then, perhaps, there are the people that helped me navigate that strange world and made me realize one's networks needn't stop for international borders or datelines. They know who they are (and if not, you'll get a decidedly unChinese thank you note in the post soon). I'm making plans to visit Australia, the UK and Denmark in the near future. Thank you.

The trip home in pictures:

Pudong Airport (how many times must I go to this ridiculous place?)

The Olympic Mountains--thank god, they're still there.

The gang is back together again.

I got to say, it's nice having my bathroom at the Cavalier back.

In the words of U.S.E., "Emerald City! Emerald City! Emerald City! Emerald City!"

Business Items and such...

Had a last great lunch with Ida--we vented a lot about things I can't really write about and it felt fabulous--and am about to run off and be a good child and buy souvenirs. My Beijing pics (two albums worth!) are up on facebook in all their shining glory. Check it out.

As per usual, some teasers:

I'm on the hunt for secrets.

My college senior picture? The Summer Palace was gorgeous.

Too bad ole'Mao's corpse was closed for cleaning. I was bummed.

"This is a Great Wall." Thanks Nixon.

It's the final countdown...

The game now is called: How many souvenirs can Maureen buy in the next 24 hours? A trip to the Dongtai Antique Market is now in order.

I'm at work wrapping things up before I leave tomorrow and trying to stay under the radar so they don't try and make me pay for anything else in regards to my ridiculous apartment. Seriously, if I was slightly older and more important, i'd probably tell them to bugger off--no one has ever hooked up my stove and I didn't have AC for three weeks, read my lips, I ain't paying anymore bills. Most expat journalists live for here for free. Hence, me trying to be sneaky.

Thoughts on returning from Beijing: Chinese Eastern is on par with Air India for the title of the world's worst airline. First, flying to beijing, they changed my flight to another airport so I almost missed it. And then, coming home we sat on the tarmac for 2.5 hours for "mechanical difficulties."

I'm actually getting really excited to be home. Whee...temperatures that are less than 95 'F!!!

This is China...

So last night I needed some personal space and decided to take a really nice long walk from my hostel, around the Forbidden city, Beihai Park and Jingshan park, up to Nanluogo Hutong and back. It was the best decision I think I have made recently and possibly the most revelatory.
In the course of an hour I witnessed: A) a huge violent police beating/bust involving almost 30 people (while 100s more watched) for a reason that is still unclear; and B) nearly a 100 elderly people dancing and doing tai chai, while singing to a small band in the middle of a huge public square.
Perhaps this is the yin and yang of China? Perhaps.
Additionally, on my epic Beijing walk I was bombarded by a group of about 5 or 6 naked three year olds playing the street. It was cute. They kept jumping close to me, which I didn't mind, until one started peeing inches from my leg. Pretty ridic.
Oh my god, I just accidentally openly hacked in public (internet cafe) and forgot where I was. I think China is influencing me a little too much currently. I am so embarassed--gross...

Seattle ETA: Less than three days...

Eich bin Beijinger?

So i'm just pretty much exhausted and too out of it to blog.
Beijing is amazing, but it's been kicking my butt big time. As in, I saw nearly all the sights--including the Great Wall at Simatai in the last three days. In short, Maureen, for once, lacks words.
Sorry.

Oh, communist ensignia abounds. Its about as frequent here as banking logos are in Shanghai. Funny how that works.

Okay, really, part II...

So Jake just sent me this and i'm peeing my pants so hard I can barely write this now.




http://www.menwholooklikekennyrogers.com/




ABOMINABLE KENNY

"You got know when to hold..."

Pure Genius.
I'm telling the world.

In to the light of the dark black night...

The That's Shanghai Awards party was fun--albeit a bit brutal for Wednesday night/Thursday morning. The Singapore Slings flowed like wine and every looked especially fantastic--although the suggestion of 20s regalia was only losely interpreted. I wore my black DVF wrap dress, which I claimed channeled the 1970s, which was actually a reinterpretation of 1920s fashion/androgeny. Yes, i'm a fashion dork. Sorry.
It was pretty cool to see co-workers and aquaintances, usually in polos and khakis, get ritzed up. Then again, i've always been a sucker for men in suits. It takes me back to the delightful shock of high school dances when normally scruffy boys would show up transformed into junior investment bankers.
If I come back Shanghai, which I'm not completely ruling out (although it would have to be under much different circumstances), I would probably work in the magazine industry--that is, unless some fabulous western company decided to post me out here with plenty of "hardship assistance" (i.e. fabulous apt., membership to an elite social club/gym, an ayi, sizable travel and expense account).
Ah...the irony and beauty of hardship assistance--a bliss I can only imagine. My hardship assistance over here has been one courtesy long distance phone call when my bank card didn't work and the fact that it took them over three weeks to fix my AC.
Welcome to international journalism. Sort of fuels my quest for an MBA, in a strange way.
I'm actually pretty stoked my last official day is Friday (i'll be in the office next Thursday to close shop) and then i'm off to Beijing. I'm going to try to write and design my Koh Samet feature completely before I leave, which should give me a nice last clip, hopefully.
I've been listening to the Beatles, today. It's rather delightful.

Maybe I should stop listening to Rocky Votolato...

Now I just have really ridiculous writer's block.
Boo...I want to take a break, but practically just had lunch.
Plus, Jake got sick from our vacation, so now i'm totally worried.
Come on Airborne...don't fail me now...

Second to last hump day in Chinois...

So, as next week is my last week in the Shang, i've decided to go out with a bang and write a doozy of a column. No, i'm not going to be forcibly removed from the country with diplomatic ties severed--but the critique of Shanghai society, from a western-standpoint, is totally needed and it involves, specifically the treatment of western women by Shanghai men.
"Whoa!" you say, Maureen's tackling a rather sticky gender situation.
Well, you're right, it is.
Here's the scope: While many westerners view China as a place devoid of sexual harassment (a decidedly western phenomenon), it simply isn't the case. Sexual harassment is rampant in Shanghai and frankly, it's rampant in my officeplace--thank god this blog is blocked in China.
I dress extraordinairly conservatively in Shanghai. Each day, I check to make sure my layers (despite 95 degree whether) don't allow for even a hint of cleavage. I wear knee length skirts practically every day (although, I simply can't go the nylons route). And yet, every day there is some sort of offhand comment made or some fellow on the bus who simply can't lift his eyes from my chest. Even if I eventually do make eye contact with this guy, his eyes will just go right back down to nipple level. Now, I would forgive the fellow--because it is a usually packed bus--but seriously, your hand just happened to be right down there when the bus came to a halting stop? What gives? I thought we got over this in America. And perhaps it is because I am blonde and, well, untouchable for them, but the more I work in my office the more I see it (with me and other western female colleagues) and it's becoming strikingly less subtle.
When I worked in Bangkok, the only negative sexual vibes I got were from western men, but here, it's completely different. Maybe it's the fact that Shanghai is simply more sexualized than the rest of China, but the whole situation just strikes me as very odd and a little ridiculous.
Sigh...more on this later...we'll see how it goes...

In other news, i'm going to the That's Shanghai "Best of Shanghai" awards banquet/party tonight and i'm super excited. It really does pay to know certain people here. Sure i'm probably seen as a bit of "arm candy" (I guess it's rather awkward that I mention this in light of what I just wrote...ha) for the other journos here, but whatever: Free amazing dinner, champagne and the theme is 1920s--I certainly don't see a problem. And i'm also excited about the possible connections, because, honestly, if I ever came back, it would be to work for a magazine like "That's Shanghai" or "That's Beijing."

Eff. I really wish the Canadian Consulate would take me off their mailing list. Jesus, they send me like four emails a day. Is this smart media outreach? Flooding a journalist's inbox? No, it's just irritating.

Ha! and Ah?

So I know i'm supposed to be soaking up Chinese media like a hungry sponge soaked with oyster sauce, but this made me laugh out loud in the office. Thanks Seattle. That's pretty life-affirming.

Additionally, the Stranger Slogged about the boss of a Chinese toy firm involved in a huge safety recall of lead paint-tainted toys who offed himself before execution (the Chinese equivalent of the FDA administrator was just publicly executed) and I was really surprised that they were so shocked by the occurence. Honesty, loss of face is so strong here that I bet given the chance, most Chinese politicians or administrators would off themselves rather than be publically executed with it broadcasted on national TV.

Anyway, random thoughts for the day...I'm off to Happy Hour...

PS: My dining page design for this week is gorgeous. If they try add adverts at the last minute (this perpetually happens), i'm going to say, "Nope, forget it." Guanxi be damned. I'm going' rogue.